Table Matters: Sweet Temptation

The diet police urge us to consume leafy greens and fresh

fruits, the goal being good health and its accompanying levels of high energy

and self-satisfaction. The owners of a chain of soup-and-salad-buffet eateries

called Sweet Tomatoes are making a valiant effort to do just that.

Florida has 18 Sweet Tomatoes restaurants, although only one

locally—on Tamiami Trail in Fort Myers. The presentation and menu emphasize

fresh salads, produce, baked muffins, soups and pastas. At lunchtime, the Fort

Myers location is bright and cheery, but when crowded a little trying to the

ear with a higher-than-normal restaurant din.

The cafeteria-style strategy is simple: Pick up a tray and

plate and start down either side of an elaborate salad bar. On it you’ll find

the works—everything from fresh spinach leaves and two variations of classic

Caesar salad to an exotic offering billed as Aunt Doris’ Red Pepper Slaw. All

sorts of temptations beckon, including shredded radishes, cherry tomatoes,

julienned beets, pasta salad, old-fashioned bread ’n’ butter pickles, plus a

broad range of salad dressings (some of which are marked low-calorie).

At the end of the line, you specify what you want to drink

and receive a glass or cup. After paying a waiting cashier $7.29 ($8.25 at

night), you choose your table and fill up your glass with iced tea, lemonade or

soda (free refills). Coffee is also available at no additional charge, but

bottled fruit drinks and bottled water cost extra.

That’s just the beginning. Another self-serve line offers

more delectable items, from soups to pasta. On the day I was there, the soup

selection included house chili, black bean, vegetable medley, New England clam

chowder and a delicious mushroom soup. The aroma of fresh-baked and still-warm

muffins in blueberry, corn, chocolate brownie and peanut butter varieties

filled the air. Next to the muffins waited an assortment of breads, including

focaccia. During our visit, the pasta station offered fettuccini Alfredo, penne

with a vegetarian basil sauce and spaghetti with Italian sausage and red

pepper. Off to one side, we found a smaller serving bar with sliced fresh

pineapple, cantaloupe and honeydew melon. Desserts included reduced-sugar

chocolate pudding and those at a self-serve frozen yogurt station with vanilla,

chocolate or a swirl of both flavors, plus calorie-filled toppings such as

crumbled cookies and Heath Bars.

There’s a temptation to forget that motherly admonition:

“Your eyes are bigger than your stomach.” It’s easy to overload your plate at

the salad bar and then succumb to the irresistible possibilities of soup, pasta

and those lovely muffins. And you can return for as many helpings as you

desire. All of it is delicious.

The healthy approach can be easily shattered in other ways.

A dainty, minimalist salad can be shot out of the pure waters of self-denial by

a high-calorie dressing. If you manage to turn a deaf ear to the Siren

temptations all around you, you can have a wonderful meal at Sweet Tomatoes and

walk out fully satisfied with the food and with your restraint.

Sweet Tomatoes

Location: 14080 S. Tamiami Trail, Fort Myers

Phone: (239) 489-1150

Hours: Sunday through Tuesday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Reservations: Not taken.