Business Bites

On a busy corner in downtown Fort Myers, nestled behind a tall fence and canopied by aging trees, is the Veranda, a slice of Southern charm sitting quietly amid the bustle of business. Its entrance beckons attorneys, businessmen and others (including Lee County Sheriff Mike Scott on a recent visit) from surrounding government buildings for "luncheon": come and sit by the goldfish pond in the quiet courtyard, get away from the stress of work, chat with co-workers in a cozy corner and relish the antebellum atmosphere.

Set in two historic houses, the restaurant for years has been a staple for romantic dinners and a place to take out-of-town guests. Each workday, the rooms fill with a business crowd and the menu caters to those who want a leisurely lunch break. It's the perfect place for private conversations or strategic business planning over hearty, Southern specialties.

The restaurant is famous for its hand-breaded fried green tomato salad, but straying from this popular choice will give equal satisfaction. The appetizers, or "light casuals," include homemade soup or chilled jumbo Gulf shrimp, a favorite of patrons. Our pick is the Southern grit cakes, two fried triangles of the Southern staple, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, served on a sweet red pepper sauce and covered in a thin layer of melted pepper-jack cheese. To garnish, andouille sausage rests on top of the cakes, providing just the right amount of spicy kick.

The lunch menu, along with an extensive list of classic sandwiches and salads, features baked and seasoned tomatoes over fresh pasta, a loin of center-cut boneless grilled pork with a mushroom demi-glace, or chicken picatta sautéed with lemon, white wine and capers.

We chose the crab cakes. Presented as a "downtown delight," three crab cakes, lightly seasoned and packed with fresh blue-crab meat, are served with a black-bean relish, fresh fruit and a creamy remoulade. Prices for entrées average $10.

The charm of this eatery matches the charm of its food, but this is not the place for a quick bite. Lunch is busy and servers are few and far between. Expect to spend more than an hour on this delicious meal.

-Rebecca Loveridge

The Veranda, 2122 Second St., Fort Myers. 332-2065. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Reservations recommended for groups of six or more.