Getaways

>>It's spring, Central Park's in bloom and you've got three days to play in the Big Apple. You want to nix the tourist traps and experience New York like a pro. So, like real New Yorkers, let's get right to it.

SEE: Skip the Empire State Building. Art Deco glamour and an unobstructed 70th-floor city view await at Top of the Rock (30 Rockefeller Center, [212] 698-2000). The Tony Awards are coming up: catch the contenders on Broadway-such as Julia Roberts in her stage debut, Three Days of Rain. (Tickets and info at www.playbill.com.) You've done the big museums; consider some jewel-box gems: The Rubin Museum of Art's Himalayan collection (150 W. 17th St.), the American Folk Art Museum (45 W. 53rd St.) and the early 20th-century German/Austrian art and design at Neue Galerie New York (1048 Fifth Ave.).

DINE: So many restaurants-so little time. Take advantage of special prix fixe menus at Gramercy Tavern, Jean Georges and Le Bernardin. For pre-theater dining, Bond 45, Joe Allen and Chez Josephine are beloved star-studded hangouts. (Chez Josephine's cabaret has after-theater glam.) Check out www.zagat.com for addresses and prices.

SHOP: Bleecker Street is the new Madison Avenue, and it's more charming. (Begin at the corner of Bleecker and Bank in Greenwich Village.) Funky local boutiques, Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Cynthia Rowley, Lulu Guinness-clothing, accessories, shoes and antiques, oh my! Do stop for a bite at Miracle Grill (No. 415), August (No. 359) or A.O.C. (No. 314). Skip the over-hyped Magnolia Bakery and have dessert at the Polka Dot Cake Studio (No. 316).

STAY: The Hotel Gansevoort (18 Ninth Ave., www.hotelgansevoort.com) is the hip hostelry in the hot meatpacking district. Its Penthouse Bar jumps at night, the rooftop swimming pool has views of lower Manhattan and celebrities across the street at SoHo House's pool. A sizzling dining and bar scene-Vento, Ono, Spice Market, The Maritime and after-hours hot spot Lotus-are a short walk away.

INSIDER TIP: Explore a New York neighborhood with a real New Yorker who shares your interests. Big Apple Greeters (www.bigapplegreeter.org) will set you up with a knowledgeable volunteer. (Yes, it's free.)

-Mary Alice Kellogg