Getaways

>>In the past decade, Chicago has emerged as a sophisticated, vibrant metropolis, a must-visit for lovers of architecture, fine dining, art, shopping and nightlife. July is chock-a-block with outdoor concerts and festivals celebrating film, food and dance (www.cityofchicago.org).

SEE: Chicago's spectacular architectural legacy-buildings designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Helmut Jahn, Louis Sullivan, Philip Johnson and other notables-makes it a living museum of style. The Chicago Architecture Foundation, 224 S. Michigan Ave., (312) 922-3432, has more than 50 walking, bike or bus tours conducted by knowledgeable guides, but take one of the boat tours on the Chicago River for maximum aesthetic impact.

Chicagoans meet at Millennium Park, Michigan Avenue and Washington Street, (312) 742-1168, with its futuristic Frank Gehry-designed band shell, the interactive Crown Fountain, gardens, and Anish Kapoor's sleek Cloud Gate sculpture, reflecting the city skyline. This is where everyone comes to play, people watch and dine (at the Park Grill). Move on to The Art Institute of Chicago, 111 S. Michigan Ave., (312) 443-3600, next door to see one of the world's greatest art collections-and the latest blockbuster exhibition.

DINE: Sample the city's best at the Taste of Chicago festival the first week of July. Reserve a gourmet evening at Charlie Trotter's in Lincoln Park, chef Jean Joho's Everest in the Loop or chef Rick Bayless' Topolobampo in River North for a singular dining experience (www.zagat.com).

SHOP: If you can't buy it on the famed Magnificent Mile, Michigan Avenue from the Chicago River to Oak Street, it probably doesn't exist. Iconic department stores, including Marshall Field's (soon to be Macy's), Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale's and Lord & Taylor, anchor the Boul Mich, but hundreds more specialty shops and boutiques are sprinkled throughout four spectacular vertical shopping complexes en route.

STAY: Chicago has its share of famed hotels, but the city's buzzing about the new 297-room James Chicago, 55 E. Ontario St., www.jameshotels.com, (877) 526-3755. Bridging the gap between boutique and luxury hotels, the James exudes sleek yet warm urban sophistication. High-tech in-room bells and whistles, two concierges to score hard-to-get reservations, star chef David Burke's Primehouse and the hopping J-Bar downstairs-cool chic and an energetic scene just steps from Michigan Boulevard.

INSIDER TIP: Chicago Neighborhood Tours are half-day guided insider excursions to many of the city's most vibrant and diverse neighborhoods, exploring food, shops, history, architecture and cultural heritage, www.chicagoneighbor hoodtours.com, (312) 742-1190.

-Mary Alice Kellogg