How Sweet It Is

His workspace smells like an Easter basket. Despite his 47 years, this man wearing the baseball cap, white lab jacket and million-dollar smile could pass for a college kid about to sprint from biology lab to softball practice. He's a generous and involved member of his community, and on Valentine's day-much to his wife, Mary's, amusement-his name is possibly on more lips than Brad Pitt's and Angelina Jolie's combined.

He's Norman Love-the man who created and runs one of the most talked-about chocolate factories in North America.

Leaping headlong from a secure and prominent position as head pastry chef for Ritz-Carlton Hotels worldwide, he has taken his burgeoning business from the back corner of a friend's medical supply office to his own building, and from revenues of $200,000 in 2001 to $3 million in 2005, an annual growth rate of 130 percent.

His clients range from his former employer to a national chain of upscale markets and high-profile corporations. Add his biggest coup, the super-expensive designer line of Godiva Chocolates, and you've got one of Southwest Florida's tastiest success stories. Over the next 18 months, if all goes according to plan, this deceptively easygoing entrepreneur will be seriously pushing the envelope in the retail confection industry.

I spent a day with Norman Love in the headquarters of his emerging chocolate empire, a chocolaty-brown building between Southwest Florida International Airport and Gateway. Between his duties as CEO, head chef, mechanic and public relations chief of Norman Love Confections, Love talks.

7:55 a.m. Hurricane Threat

He's pacing and speaking earnestly into his cell phone. The 5,000 pounds of Swiss chocolate for this week's Godiva production are stuck in an east coast traffic jam. Furthermore, Hurricane Ernesto seems headed straight for Fort Myers. A power loss could be devastating. Even if the chocolates don't melt, the trademark shine could be destroyed. The situation requires close monitoring.

LOVE: I never expected this scope of business

When I was 15 and making Swensen's ice cream in Hollywood, Fla., I already knew I'd be a pastry chef. Three decades and a frenetic career later, I opened this place to slow down, make a little chocolate for my friends. ...

We started with two employees. When USA Today named us among the top 10 chocolatiers in the country, we were completely unprepared for the volume of orders. Mary and I-even our teen-agers, Ryan and Carly-enlisted friends to help. Two of Mary's best friends came for a week and stayed to become full-time members of the team.

8:20 Loading Dock

The chocolate delivery arrives, barely 30 minutes late. The driver, also a personal friend, always manages to come through. Love, along with top-tier chefs Alan Pitotti and Chris Blue, helps unload.

8:45 Scientist Mode

With a sharp eye on the clock, yet without appearing rushed, Love leaves neatly piled broken-down boxes at the loading dock and transitions smoothly into scientist mode. He and chocolate production manager Maura Metheny check detailed charts and notebooks that itemize every procedure, timeline, temperature, measurement, calibration and quantity.

LOVE: It's about the numbers

I learned in the hotel business that everything is about time, numbers and quantities. We strictly follow the multidisciplinary Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points (HACCP) system, which is the food service industry standard. Our math is so accurate it even allows for what gets stuck in the pan. We have very little loss.

9:00 Love and his Screwdriver

The new state-of-the-art chocolate-tempering machine from France is malfunctioning, despite several frustrating trans-Atlantic phone consults. After an intense 10-minute phone huddle, Love produces a screwdriver and purposefully strides toward the machine. When this fix-it method is attempted-and it ultimately is successful-it seems like a good time to explore.

The pristine white-and-stainless-steel factory tempo is in full swing, Willy Wonka style. One counter is awash in 800 chocolate seashells destined for the Hyatt Regency Coconut Point. Workers are buffing the insides of plastic chocolate molds with sterile cotton balls. Even a trace of oil from fingers can ruin the shine.

Tall carts of exquisite chocolates are being wheeled into the Godiva room, where an assembly line of workers in crisp lab coats and hairnets awaits. It's like that famous I Love Lucy episode, except that it's as smooth as, well, a Norman Love chocolate. The first worker places an open box on the conveyor belt, and the next half-dozen ladies place confections, according to an overhead chart, into waiting slots. The flow of boxes, chocolates and hands is poetry in motion.

The supervisor at the end of the line inspects each box, adds a protective pad, sends it through a metal detector and then to the baggers, sealers and ribbon ladies.

LOVE: Godiva G

Godiva's G line was the biggest launch success in that company's history. We designed 15 exclusive chocolates for them and collaborated on the package design. Our initial 360,000 pieces were sold in a two-week period. The G line sells for about $100 a pound. Compared with an average price of $30 a pound (and $80 for our own line) it's the most expensive chocolate in America. We can't sell the G line in our shop, but we sample them for the customers.

9:15 Hazelnuts, Lemon Zest and

Finger-Painting

The fragrances of roasted hazelnuts and fresh lemon lure me back to the kitchen, where head pastry chef Mandy Falchetti is zesting lemons. One worker is squeezing filling from a pastry bag while another wields an airbrush with a blowtorch. Two are finger-painting cinnamon swirls onto chocolates. Like snowflakes, no two are identical.

I find Norman Love at a workstation, breaking up sheets of cooled toffee. He has clearly relaxed.

LOVE: Personnel-it's about empowerment

I learned in the hospitality business how not to treat employees. Empowerment is part of what you do. You allow your people to make decisions and be creative.

Our people are the best in the business. Most have been with us since the beginning. We respect each other and enjoy one another's company. We go bowling and to charity events, and we host an annual party in our home. I believe in incentives. I provide a 401(k) program and profit sharing, which so far has been upwards of 15 percent of their salaries, and give bonuses after the intense four-month Godiva-production period.

9:30 Chocolate Salon is Buzzing

All tables are occupied by customers enjoying fresh designer pastries with gourmet coffees and teas. Glass cases display the chocolates and pastries like expensive jewels-the Tiffany's of the sweets world. A window wall allows customers a peek at the kitchen activity while they taste chocolates from an ever-changing sample tray.

LOVE: There are no rejects

We prefer to call them "samples." Notice the small white scratch on this piece; the customer might not see the flaw, but if it's not perfect, we don't sell it.

10:00 Businessman Mode

Love slips into the office to catch up on e-mails and phone calls. A restaurant has a pastry order. Some retailers want to sell his chocolates, but they don't fit Love's strict profile.

The final e-mail is one he's been anticipating-six more Whole Foods stores have committed to carry the Norman Love line. The two Texas test markets were very successful; with its 190 stores nationwide, the future looks very bright.

Snail mail has brought a copy of the glossy magazine, La Vie Claire, featuring an eight-page photo spread on Love and his confections.

10:15 Perishable Cream and Pink Chihuahuas

Love has little time to enjoy the article. An extremely perishable shipment of cream needs his attention. And UPS has delivered a supply of artful transfers, apparently for a custom logo, which appear to be hot-pink Chihuahuas in diamond necklaces. No note of explanation is enclosed.

LOVE: Logos

We store logos for Lexus, Robb & Stucky, the Marco Island Marriott and scores of others for future orders. We've put everything imaginable on a piece of chocolate for businesses, private parties, weddings and charities. A popular gift box for corporate clients includes 15 chocolates of the client's choosing, with the logo square in the center.

11:00 Head Chef Mode

Leaving the Chihuahua mystery to office genies Mary Love and Shari Gall, chef Norman returns to the kitchen. He has an approving nod, an answer, a question or a request for each of the artisans at work. He pauses to taste Falchetti's freshly made lemon curd ("Excellent! Maybe a bit stronger on the lemon."), then samples some warm honey ganache in progress.

LOVE: Tasmanian honey

I discovered this amazing honey in New Zealand. Much of my work, and my ingredients, have been influenced by my travels.

12:00 Working Lunch

Love breaks for lunch at his desk, juggling phone calls and family matters. Mary, finishing up some Internet orders, is leaving to take daughter Carly for her driver's permit. Today's her 15th birthday. Love's e-mails include a franchise inquiry, some fan mail and a request for a charity-auction door prize. His answers are "no," "thank you very much," and "happy to help!" respectively.

LOVE: Philanthropy

Mary and I believe in giving back to the community. We've participated in about 250 charitable events. We never say no.

1:00 Serving Customers

Most customers in the Chocolate Salon don't realize that the polite gentleman boxing up their selections is Norman Love himself. One, in particular, does. His newest employee-to-be is selecting chocolates for a parting gift to her former boss.