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Savor Anguilla

>>Anguilla, that sun- and beach-blessed island in the British West Indies so near (and yet so far) from overbuilt Saint Martin, is justifiably famous as an exclusive and romantic Caribbean getaway. Its gracious people, strong musical heritage and uncrowded, talcum-powder beaches at every turn would be enough, but consider for a moment the island's unofficial motto: "Life's a beach . and then you dine." Dine you shall, and spectacularly. Get the lowdown at www.anguilla-vacation.com.

SEE: There are, happily, no chain restaurants or casinos on Anguilla. Life centers around enjoying the island's 33 exceptional beaches-notably Rendezvous Bay, Meads Bay and Shoal Bay West-with a laid-back yet elegant vibe. Surf's up on the Atlantic side of the island; gentle swells on the Caribbean side. Every watersport extant can be had here; pick your favorite. Or just bask and relax.

STAY: At the CuisinArt Resort & Spa, the island's love of food and spirit of place come into play. All 92 spacious rooms have spectacular water views, and the singular on-site organic farm produces organically grown veggies and herbs put to good use at the resort's two award-winning restaurants (www.cuisin

artresort.com). The Venus Spa is one of the island's best.

DINE: Where to begin? The restaurants at top resorts like CuisinArt, Malliouhana and Cap Juluca all boast world-class chefs, extensive wine lists-and water views. But no dining experience around here is complete without a visit to Blanchard's, one of the Caribbean's premier eateries. Celeb-sightings (it's a favorite of Cate Blanchett, Katie Couric and Kevin Bacon, among others) take a backseat to jerk shrimp and other sophisticated takes on island specialties. But just about every dining establishment-from humble beach barbecue shacks to luxurious white tablecloth restaurants-will be delish. The island has a reputation to uphold, after all . and it does.

SHOP: You don't go to Anguilla to shop, although the resort boutiques offer a luxe and tantalizing array of accessories, jewelry, clothing and all things tropical. Shoppers seeking something truly unique should tour the island's many art galleries and take a painting or sculpture home; Anguilla's spirit of place is deeply rooted in art.

INSIDER'S TIP: Reggae singer/composer Bankie Banx is Anguilla's global music ambassador for good reason-Bob Dylan came here just to listen and hang out with him. Make like a local and go for grilled snapper at The Dune Preserve (www.dunepreserve.com), Banx's beloved rambling beach shack restaurant, bar-and home. Kick back until dawn with Bankie and his friends, and make sure to sample a Duneshine, the potent Banx-created concoction that will have you dancing for no reason-and in no time.

-Mary Alice Kellogg