Getaways

>>Set in a lush desert valley surrounded by mountains with 300 days of sunshine each year, Tucson is the perfect city to experience the spirit of the Southwest-both old and new. World-class resorts, two of the nation's top 10 spas (Miraval and Canyon Ranch, where modern United States spas began), and thriving cultural and culinary booms give the Old Pueblo a sophisticated glow. So saddle up, pardner-and don't forget to pack the golf clubs, sunblock and a healthy appetite-to see this surprising Arizona city like an insider.

SEE: In February, the nation's largest gem show and La Fiesta de los Vaqueros, a major championship rodeo, are in town. Make your first stop the internationally-acclaimed Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum (www.desertmuseum.org, [520] 883-1380), a singular living museum showcasing desert flora and fauna. Tucson was founded in 1775 as a Spanish presidio; a walking tour of the downtown historic district (Tucson Visitor Center, www.visittucson.org, [800] 638-8350), with gracious Spanish colonial houses, shops and museums, is a good introduction to the city's past.

STAY: The five-star Loews Ventana Canyon Resort (www.loewshotels.com, [800] 234-5117) has it all-a championship PGA golf course, desert trails right outside the door, a great spa . and a dramatic setting in the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains, with drop-dead views of city lights at night. The resort's Ventana Room is arguably the city's most elegant dining experience (and also the most romantic).

DINE: James Beard winner Janos Wilder set the "new Southwestern cuisine" standard a decade ago and continues to offer original, fresh takes on same at his sophisticated Janos Restaurant (www.janos.com, [520] 615-6100). Since Mexico is but 65 miles away, savor Mexican food at its casual best in Tucson at El Minuto Café (www.elminutocafe.com, [520] 882-4145) in the Barrio Historico, and El Charro Mexican Café (www.elcharrocafe.com, [520] 622-1922), the oldest family-operated Mexican restaurant in the country.

SHOP: You don't go to Tucson to buy Prada, although you can at any number of upscale malls. Better instead to spend an afternoon exploring the one-of-a-kind shops and galleries at the Old Town Artisans ([520] 623-6021). This historic block-square cluster of buildings dating from the 1850s has cozy cafés with outdoor patios, too.

INSIDER'S TIP: You want blazingly beautiful sunsets? Tucson is known for them. Take it from this Tucson native: The best place to view the display is from Gate's Pass, high in the foothills at the end of Speedway Boulevard. Take lots of film; you'll be glad you did.

-Mary Alice Kellogg